I have old-school 1975 windows in my house currently. I want to replace all of these windows with either new construction or replacement windows and I want to take on this project myself (not hire out to do it). Yep, I’m a big DIY-er. My question is: Is there a good book or Internet-based guide that I can purchase or refer to that will guide me in removing my old-school aluminum windows and replacing them with either new construction or (vinyl) replacement windows???
What I am working with is aluminum (old school) windows that are single pained glass. These windows are in openings that have a brick exterior and either a wood paneling or drywall (painted or wall-papered) interior. The problem I am having is fitting the windows into the brick exterior opening, which is not going to change. How do I handle this? Do I order based on the opening in the brick exterior? Will there be some destruction of the interior (wood paneling or drywall, depending on the window) walls in trying to get the old aluminum windows out and reconstruct the openings for the new windows???
Thanks in advance!
andersen renewal windows
Comments
DIY.com
It’s not too hard though. You will have a rough opening that you size up the windows by and after using a Saws-all to cut through the nails that anchor the old one to the rough opening it should lift right out. Now if you pull it from the inside be prepared to remove the trim around the window carefully using a Wonder Bar and score the caulk so you can separate it from the molding on the outside. Some places it’s easier to do it from the outside and change the ROW molding from there. I might suggest a screw gun and a flat spatula. The latter is for shoehorning things in and sticking insulation between the frame and the window. A hammer, Chop saw, caulk, primer for the wood if it’s not (ROW is preprimed from Homer’s), and prepaint the exterior pieces with exterior latex and touch up after attaching. Given that I don’t know what you are looking at, the two ways to skin the cat are up to you. I go about $100. over the cost of each window I change out when I’m not doing it for relatives. Cardinal is a brand Homers carries for vinyl but then there’s Pella, Marvin and others for thermosealed wood frames. All of which are carried all over the place.
DIY.com might have some instructional vid. But your application may or maynot fit the description.
It really depends on the construction of your home and how the exsiting units are installed.
I`ve removed units that have practically jumped out of the openings and the next job had to remove them with “The Jaws of Life”! (this tool would make Tim Allen drool)
Email me. I may be able to give ya some ideas!
Replacement windows are usually relying on just a bead of caulk to hold out the weather. I always try to install windows in the same manner as I would a new home, more work but a longer lasting installation. The only exception to me is a brick exterior, have few choices in that case. I use window flashing at the sills and wrap the sides and top after window is placed. Just read instructions on whatever windows you pick out and try to follow the manufacturers instructions.
I just worked on a home that a replacement company had recently done the windows, they were out of square and had huge gaps poorly filled with gobs of caulk, just nasty.
Here is the method I would use for you and your situation.
#1 Decide on what type of window works best for you. New standard windows are sizes that are readily available and are not replacement. They have full frame and require new trim on interior.
#2 Replacement windows are made to fit into existing frame, since you have no wood frame, but rather aluminum windows- I would try to use a regular type new window. You can choose wood or vinyl. By staying with a stock window-you will be able to easily get replacement sash,parts,etc. The only restriction is you must be able to make these stock sizes work in your existing openings. Sizes usually are in 2″ increments.
#4. Take off interior trim (if you have this), many aluminum windows will not have interior wood trim, but just a caulk joint .
Anyway you need to determine the (rough opening) which is the size of the existing hole you now have for the window. This is the hole size that was framed prior to your windows being set. If your home is brick or stone you need to measure the outside dimensions from brick to brick (width) and from brick sill to brick above (height). These measurements are called the overall unit dimension. This is the widest and tallest that your new window could be. I usually take off 1/2″ from both measurements for caulk space. Use whatever measurement is the smallest. If the rough opening is smaller than the overall unit dimension – use it , if the overall unit dimension is smaller use it.
I would do 1 window and get comfortable with the procedure, if something would go wrong , you are only out the 1 window-take your time and I’m sure you will do fine on this first window.
Measuring is the critical part. You probably will need to add some wood framing to accept your new windows. Some have a nailing flange on the exterior perimeter. Get the closest stock size to your opening and frame the hole to match this rough opening for your new window. You may need to add rough wood trim on exterior and cover with aluminum coil.
Start with 1 window – work out the bugs and then do them all.